Adventure beckons the intrepid in the northernmost reaches of Japan, where snow-capped peaks and pristine landscapes reign supreme. Hokkaido, a verdant island teeming with natural wonders, has long captivated travellers seeking an extraordinary escape. Among its treasures lie the awe-inspiring volcanic realms of Mt. Usu and Lake Toya, where the Earth’s raw power converges with breathtaking beauty, igniting an irresistible call to exploration.
These volcanic marvels, forged by the relentless forces of nature, have become a mecca for thrill-seekers and nature enthusiasts alike. As Rob Goss, a renowned British travel writer, embarked on a journey to unravel their secrets, he discovered a world where adventure and enlightenment intertwine, leaving an indelible mark on the soul.
Mt. Usu: A Slumbering Giant Awakens
Cloaked in mystique, Mt. Usu is a testament to the Earth’s ever-evolving canvas. Its imposing presence commands respect, for this slumbering giant has a history of unpredictable awakenings. “Locals say that Usu never lies. There are always signs that an eruption is coming,” explains Rie Egawa, a seasoned Volcano Meister guide, her voice tinged with reverence.
Egawa’s words echo the mountain’s tumultuous past, etched into the landscape like scars of a battle hard-won. The 2000 eruptions left a trail of destruction, forcing 16,000 residents to evacuate as pyroclastic flows and searing mud cascaded relentlessly. Yet, new life emerges from the ashes of chaos, a poignant reminder of nature’s resilience.
“Even if I lived elsewhere in Japan, it’s a disaster-prone country. Other areas have earthquakes and floods. We accept that we have eruptions. And we get to live with a beautiful mountain,” declares Noriko Yamanaka, a resident whose family has weathered Usu’s tempests with unwavering resolve.
Venturing into the Heart of the Volcano
As Goss and Egawa embark on a snowshoeing expedition around the base of the imposing Showa Shinzan, a mountain born from Usu’s fiery womb in 1943-44, the raw power of the volcanic realm becomes palpable. With each stride, they uncover nature’s secrets—deer tracks etched deep into the snow, delicate squirrel paw prints dancing across the pristine white canvas.
Ascending the heights of Mt. Usu via the ropeway, they witness the awe-inspiring Ginnuma Crater. In this gaping maw, wisps of smoke rise ominously as if taunting the brave souls who dare to tread its periphery. Egawa’s photographs of the pre-1977 mountaintop, a verdant alpine pasture adorned with picnicking families, only heighten the contrast, a stark reminder of nature’s unrelenting force.
Lake Toya: A Shimmering Jewel Born of Fire
Just a stone’s throw from the volcanic might of Mt. Usu lies Lake Toya, a shimmering jewel born of the Earth’s fiery depths. This caldera, formed over 100,000 years ago, now cradles a cluster of peaked islands at its centre, a breathtaking sight that has captivated visitors for centuries.
At the Lake Toya Visitor Center and adjoining Volcano Science Museum, Goss delves into the region’s rich history, uncovering the stories etched into the very fabric of the land. Multilingual exhibits and immersive videos transport him through time, revealing the intricate dance between volcanic forces and the resilience of life that has shaped this extraordinary realm.
The Allure of Toya’s Hot Springs
As if the awe-inspiring volcanic landscapes were not enough, Toya offers a soothing respite in the form of its renowned hot springs. Uncovered by the eruptions of 1910, these mineral-rich baths have become a haven for weary adventurers and locals alike.
Goss indulges in the warmth of Toya’s therapeutic waters, savouring the rejuvenating properties that have earned the hot springs a reputation for soothing aches, relieving fatigue, and promoting marital bliss. This playful claim adds a touch of whimsy to this volcanic wonderland.
Embracing Adventure Responsibly
While the allure of Hokkaido’s volcanic wonders is undeniable, it is paramount to approach these natural marvels with reverence and responsibility. Goss’s journey reminds us that true adventure lies not in reckless pursuit but in a harmonious dance with nature, respecting her power while revelling in her splendour.
As travellers flock to these awe-inspiring realms, they must heed the wisdom of the local guides, whose intimate knowledge of the land ensures a safe and enlightening experience. Only through a profound appreciation of nature’s majesty can one truly embrace the thrill of adventure, leaving an indelible mark on the soul.
Written by: Kanda Limw
